Tennis Eden Parc, Annecy: Peak performance

My only criteria when booking a holiday this year was that it had to have a tennis court. I'd made the reservation months ago, in the heady days before quarantine requirements, mask wearing and social distancing, when the main inconvenience was fitting in around my husband's work schedule in a summer packed with sporting events - Euro 2020 and the Tokyo Olympics - both of which were postponed. The only property I could find in France for the last two weeks in August was here in Annecy so I snapped it up. By the time the holidays arrived, after enduring the heatwave through the dog days of July and the start of August in Paris, we were desperate to get away. In my desire to find somewhere to play tennis, I hadn't given much thought to the location - this apartment ticked the most important box with access to two tennis courts and also a pool, but its most stunning feature turned out to be a wraparound balcony with breathtaking views across the lake and mountains. Annecy has spectacular views in every direction and there is plenty to do and see when you are not on court. 

In  photos the Eden Parc courts looked like clay, but in fact they are a surface known as OmniCourt - a type of synthetic grass with a sand top-dressing, which needs to be swept after each session to redistribute the sand. The ones at Eden Parc are extremely well-maintained, clearly marked out with excellent nets and we found the surface pretty much perfect - a nice even bounce, soft underfoot and just the right amount of slide for an enjoyable game. Temperatures have been scorching - up to 36C on some days - but even after an overnight downpour the court was soon ready to play on and quickly dried off. My only quibble would be the lack of shade - the rapidly shrinking shadow of a couple of trees had us creeping up to the net for some respite or lingering in a back corner collecting balls. We needed plenty of water to get us through our daily two-hour matches and some judicious moving of the court-side seats to for a break in the shade when we changed ends.

There's no problem with availability - no need to reserve (though there is a sheet to book a slot) - in fact we've been pretty much the only people playing. Possibly it's too hot for the locals - only mad dogs and Englishmen go out in the midday sun - they are more likely to be found social distancing round the pool. Personally I find two hours of tennis with the mountain views sets us up perfectly for a day of messing about on the lake or heading up the mountain (and jumping off in the case of the kids, who are keen to try paragliding). Highly recommended for tennis enthusiasts (and Annecy's not bad either).

Tennis Louis Lumière: Rallying after the Covid crisis

Encore on court: return to tennis after a long lockdown break

After two months of lockdown in France,  the tennis courts are finally open again. If ever there were a  game that allowed social distancing then surely tennis is it (especially singles), but the public courts were not among the first things to reopen. The Covid crisis also means I've missed my annual birthday week visit to Roland Garros (postponed until September) and there is no Wimbledon to look forward to either - cancelled altogether.
A cheering game of tennis was just the ticket to blow away the coronavirus cobwebs and start getting back to normal, so I booked a court at Louis Lumière, close to home  - with no requirement to take public transport.  There are two excellent refurbished courts  (numbers 2 and 3), but court number one has yet to be upgraded and seemed to be an access route to the open air gym at the far end today, with a steady stream of body-building types carrying weights, heading in that direction.
There was a one way system to enter the sports centre with hand gel provided and the now ubiquitous queueing markers to space out those waiting to check in at reception. The changing rooms were closed, but the loos were open and there was a tap to refill water bottles.
I've missed playing tennis, especially as the spring weather has been so consistently fabulous since we locked down in mid-March. Unfortunately my efforts at keeping fit (in front of the TV with Body Coach Joe Wicks) have led to a knee strain so I was taking it very easy. I was damned if was letting anything get between me and my return to the court, though  at times it felt as if I was channeling my late dad who as he got older, with knee bandages on both knees, relied on crafty ball placement rather than speed around the court. I left my son (and tennis partner) to do the running and astonishingly, despite my handicap, we won the first set 6-1.
Not wishing to tempt fate I sat the rest of the session out. We have booked a holiday home with a tennis court in Annecy from mid August and plan to play every day for a fortnight so I need (kneed) to be in top shape for that.
It felt good to play - and dare I say it, but my knee feels better for it!

Tennis Edouard Pailleron: Academic exercise

It's my daughter Sophie's last week in Paris before she leaves for Cardiff University. In between packing her bags and and scouring the shops for Parisian essentials to furnish her student flat, she's been taking a nostalgic tour of her old haunts, lingering over lunch at her favourite bars and cafés, hanging out in her favourite squares and generally soaking up the ambiance of her home city before she flies the nest. Tennis was on her 'to do' list and as I was booking midweek in term time I managed to get us a slot on the only public clay courts in Paris at Edouard Pailleron, not far from the Butte Chaumont.
These two courts are usually snapped up as soon as booking opens. They are in a lovely tree-shaded corner of the 19th, tucked behind the buildings, but with enough space around them that you almost have the feeling of being at a little tennis club.

The court condition and line markings had deteriorated since I last played here and the clay was starting to show cracks at the baseline, no doubt as a result of this year's scorching summer, but the couple on before us carefully raked and watered the clay before they came off so we had the pleasure of starting our game on a neatly manicured surface.
Even in less than peak condition, it is an enjoyable surface to play on - the bounce is so much better than on concrete and it feels softer underfoot, even if you do leave covered with a fine dusting of red clay. More crucially, disputed calls can be settled by looking for the mark on the court.
We enjoyed an energetic singles and then got almost as much pleasure from raking and watering the court when we had finished.
I haven't checked out the Cardiff University tennis facilities yet - I imagine indoor courts would be an essential if you are going to get a game in the Welsh climate. Sophie will be packing her racket for sure and perhaps I can even persuade to write a guest post.

Tennis Edouard Pailleron
22 rue Edouard Pailleron
75019
Paris
Metro: Bolivar  (line 7bis)

Les Gémaux St Aygulf 2: Court out by rain

Rain soaked Riviera: Saint Tropez under water after storms caused flash floods in the town centre

Playing everyday for two weeks, I felt this court deserved a second post - particularly in view of the turn of events. The hottest ever temperatures recorded in France broke with an almighty storm that saw us almost stranded by flash flooding in Saint Tropez. Thunder, lightning and torrential rain brought a spectacular end to the heatwave and were too much for the drains of Saint Tropez to cope with. We battled home through the storm, which raged all night and awoke to calm skies ready for a morning match.

The calm after the storm (picture by Sophie Jackson)

 Unfortunately the downpour was more than a match for the tennis court drainage system and - rather like the streets of Saint Tropez - there was an extensive flood in the back quarter when we arrived at 10am. Undaunted, and much to the amusement of an elderly Frenchman enjoying his breakfast on an overlooking balcony, my son and I waded in and set to clearing the drainage channels along the side of the court which were blocked with pine needles and other debris. The weather was now perfect for tennis - slightly cooler after the storm and with a gentle breeze. There was not a moment to lose - we had to play. I had cleared snow before from tennis courts in Ealing with the Will to Win Ladies; I wasn't going to let a bit of water stand in the way of a game. Armed with the broom from our apartment we cleared three drainage holes (two of which weren't even immediately visible) and gradually (and rather satisfyingly) the water began to drain from the court. With the help of the blazing Côte d'Azur sunshine, it was soon dry enough to play on. Our spectator applauded our efforts, chuckling at our enthusiasm and determination - court maintenance par excellence. It was our best game yet - the drainage operation had proved the perfect warm up - and my son and I notched up another victory. 

Abuse of racket: Sophie's (right)

Two days later it was my daughter's racket which brought a halt to proceedings. "New balls please!" is a common enough cry, "New rackets please!" less so. She had somehow managed to knock her racket head out of shape (I suspect abuse of racket in a fit of pique at a disputed line call).  She played on valiantly however until we could make an emergency dash to a nearby sports shop to buy a new one. My husband also decided to treat himself, convinced that all that stood between him and victory was a better racket. There are worse holiday souvenirs - at least these will be put to good use back home though a trip to a sports shop is not my usual idea of a holiday outing.

Les Gémeaux St Aygulf: The heat is on!

Holiday oasis: Palm-fringed surroundings put Paris courts in the shade

We have decamped south for our summer holidays to St Aygulf near Fréjus - escaping record-breaking temperatures back in Paris - and are staying in a 'résidence' with its own tennis court and pool. The idea is to play every day, weather permitting - which in this case means being able to book a court early morning or after six when the weather is slightly cooler than daytime temperatures which have soared up to 36 Celsius. There's a simple booking system which allows you to reserve your court 48 hours ahead by locking your marker into a board by the door at your preferred hour. 

The key to reservations: the court-side booking system

It's a lovely tree-shaded court in the classic French concrete block style which we have become so accustomed to back home - slightly worn, but with an excellent net and also surrounding netting to keep balls in play. It's such a change to look up and see clear blue sky and palm trees and also to watch tiny lizards skitter away as you reach to collect a ball from the edge of the court. And while in Paris we might have to fight against the noise of the Périphérique traffic to call out the score, in the south the problem is more one of the deafening chatter of cigalles who chirp happily around us throughout our games - or even worse break into song in the middle of a crucial point like a heckler in the crowd at Wimbledon.

Evening shadows: the coolest time for a warm up

There have been other distractions too - a break-in at an overlooking apartment saw the arrival of the police one evening and then scenes of crime teams dusting for fingerprints the following morning.

It is a short walk from our apartment to the court and we also have the option of a post-match dip in the neighbouring pool or a short stroll to the beach for a swim in the Med. All in all perfect tennis conditions - and made all the more perfect when followed by my favourite summer aperitif back home on the balcony.

Post-match tipples

Tennis Léo Lagrange: Sophie's Bac on court!

She smashed it: Game, set and match for Sophie in the Baccalaureate (Mention Bien)

 Paris is sweltering - in fact it has been so so hot the City of Paris had set up a temporary swimming pool at the side of these courts in the 12th arrondissement. And while the city steamed in record-breaking temperatures my daughter - along with all the other 18-year-olds in the country - was slogging away at her exams in the Bac. Results were out on Friday and she smashed it - time for a celebratory game of tennis and picnic before jetting off to Berlin with her friends.
I love the setting of Léo Lagrange, on the edge of the Bois de Vincennes. The surrounding pine trees and flower beds lend an almost holiday feeling and the squeals of joy from children in the nearby pool added to the seaside ambience.

The courts themselves are another story and are in dire need of resurfacing. The cracks between the concrete blocks add an extra element of difficulty with balls that land awkwardly, flying off at all angles, and the scuffs and divots worn away by pounding feet are a positive trip hazard. The net had also seen better days; it was frayed and holey, although at least more or less the right height. It reminded me why I enjoy playing at Louis Lumiere in the 20th arrondissement - a less salubrious setting accompanied by the roar of the Périphérique, but on two immaculately re-surfaced courts with new nets (the third is still awaiting attention).
We were fired up by watching Andy Murray and Serena Williams storm to victory in the Wimbledon Mixed Doubles the night before, but Sophie's success in the Bac did not convert to success on court and she and her dad lost to her brother and I in a tightly fought match.
I'd picked the court for picnicking potential and it didn't let us down in that respect. We spread our rug on the lawn for a late courtside lunch in true British style while the Marie de Paris court supervisor wished us a cheery Bon Appetit!
Mention Trés Bien for the setting, Rattrapage definitely required for the courts.

Rough deal: court maintenance required

Tennis Léo Lagrange
68 Boulevard Poniatowski
75012
Metre: Porte de Charenton

Tennis Edouard Pailleron: Clay court is an instant hit

It is only two weeks ago that my friend Tanya and I were admiring the manicured perfection of the French Open courts at Roland Garros - raked, watered and with lines swept clean, the clay surface looked so inviting. Little did we imagine that we would soon be playing on clay ourselves on one of Paris's public courts. Even better, when we arrived the couple on court before us were raking and watering the surface - we could hardly believe our luck or restrain our squeals of enthusiasm.

Edouard Pailleron is in the 19th arrondissement at a sort of mid-point between Tanya's home in the 10th and ours in the 20th. I can't believe we have never played here before - it turns out that these are the only public clay courts in Paris. The address, in Rue Edouard Pailleron, had proved slightly tricky to find - the courts are poorly signed and tucked behind a large building next to the swimming pool. We had to ask at the neighbouring ice-rink, but once we arrived we had the friendliest and most helpful welcome I have ever received at a Paris tennis court. The woman at reception showed us to an underground changing room and then personally conducted us to our court.

There are two courts side by side in a lovely, leafy setting - so much nicer to play to a background of birdsong than the roar of the traffic. The clay surface means they are used only for tennis so there are no distracting handball or basketball markings and the fencing is in good order so the balls stay in the court. I'm far more used to playing on concrete or carpet - the surface of choice for most public courts in the city - so it was a real treat to play on clay. The court had a good, even bounce and disputed line calls were easy to judge by checking the mark where the ball bounced. At the end of our game it was our turn to rake and water - something I know my kids will enjoy when I bring them for a game. As we left we joked should decant some of the red surface into tiny glass jars of the type sold in the Roland Garros souvenir shop for €20 - who would ever know the difference?

The rakes progress: Smoothing the surface post match

Let us spray: Damping down the dust for the next game

Tennis Edouard Pailleron

22 Rue Edouard Pailleron

75019

Paris

Metro: Bolivar (line 7bis)