It has been the dullest of dull weeks - rain, drizzle, mist. The long, lingering golden autumn is well and truly over so there was no question of playing outdoors. It wasn’t even properly light as we left the apartment, the Christmas lights strung across the road reflecting in the wet pavement. Surely it’s too early for Christmas lights? It’s not even December - though I’ve already had an invitation to enter the Christmas social doubles at my old club in Ealing (still on the mailing list - I can’t bring myself to cut the links and my medal from last year's
tournament still has pride of place)
Tennis Jules Ladoumègue is near the end of Metro line 5 at Porte de Pantin in the 19th arrondissement. In fact it lies beyond the Porte and the Péripherique which was completely jammed at that time in the morning reminding me, not for the first time, why we don’t need a car in Paris. The Parc de La Villette is across the road as you emerge from the metro, looking like a building site for the moment with construction of Paris Philharmonic’s new concert hall now well underway. Crossing lane after lane of traffic and the tramway we trudged under the elevated section of the Péripherique (possibly one of the least elevating sights in Paris) effectively leaving the city. A sign proudly announces that you are arriving in Saint Denis - winner of a Ville Fleurie prize, the equivalent of Britain in Bloom, though looking at the grim, urban surroundings there was not a leaf or a petal to be seen - I’d hate to see who was runner-up.
Eventually we arrived at the enormous Stade Jules Ladoumègue. This facility is on an entirely different scale from anything we have seen before - a running track with stands, an indoor basketball arena, rugby pitches, football pitches, outdoor basketball courts, outdoor tennis courts and, after a long walk from reception, the long strip of indoor courts. Everything is beautifully landscaped and well-maintained. A man with a leaf blower was blowing the leaves off the athletics track. This is not in a beautiful part of Paris, but the staff take a great pride in their lovely sports ground.
The indoor courts are in a long modern box, with sliding doors giving access to each of the five courts. They are laid end to end rather than side by side which made me feel as if I was playing in a long hall of mirrors reflecting an infinite number of courts. This was my least favourite court so far. The building felt like a narrow aircraft hanger with a landing strip of dazzling lights on the ceiling. The court was a pale grey, hard concrete which combined with the greyish netting at either end dividing the adjoining courts made it difficult to see the ball. Every time I Iooked up to return an overhead shot I was dazzled by the lights.
The two men who were on court before us got changed by the side of the court and then sat on a bench to watch (guaranteed to make me fluff my shots). The final straw was when a huge spider crawled across the court, a harbinger of doom. I lost - for the first time since arriving Paris.
Tennis Jules Ladoumègue
1 Avenue de la Porte de Pantin
75019 Paris
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